We took the night train from Kolkata to Gaya last night. And what an experience that was. For starters, just getting to the train station was insane. I witnessed the absolute worse traffic so far in the trip. There is just no order, anywhere. Gigantic busses, taxis and rickshaws are engaged in a constant war of roadspace. Frankly, I'm impressed that road rage seems to be nonexistant here. The train station itself was only slightly less chaotic than the streets. I'll upload a picture of it ASAP, because it really is quite a sight. Thousands of people sitting around, even sleeping on the floor, waiting for theri train, which may or may not be on time.
Our train WAS on time, thankfully, but the information billboard may as well have been written in Chinese. Numbers didn't seem to make sense, and neither did destinations. Somehow, it all worked because we did make it to Gaya in the morning.
The train itself was pretty wild too. There are no compartments, so in that sense, it is very similar to the night train in Thailand, only this is the ghetto version. Where the train in Thailand limited passengers o one per bunk, there is no such limitation here. There were 12 people in our compartment (facing bunks section) for 8 berths. The Muslim family that travelled with us had to sleep two and three per berth, and the father ended up sleeping on the floor. Elise tried entertaining the kids a bit with her finger puppet she got in Chiang Mai, but there was still a certain difficulty in establishing a social rapport with them. As a male, I couldn't really look at the females, and Elise's puppet scared the baby boy too much. Oh well.
Since we were in the sleeper class (no AC), the windows were kept open all night (which means that passing trains were quite loud), and there was no real space to store our luggage anywere apart from on our own bubnk, so that's what I used as a pillow. I could only sleep for short bouts of about an hour at a time. So when we finally made it to gaya, all I craved was a hotel room where I could crash. Getting to know when we actually got to gaya was a bit tricky too, because there are no english signs at the stations, and there are no controllers to come and wake you before you get there. Since gaya wasn't the last stop on the train's itinerary, we were lucky to have woken up in time. We almost got off about 40 minutes early because elise asked a leading question. It's hard not to do so, but it can have dire consequences.
Example:
given the question: "Is this Gaya?"
possible answers are: "Yes/No/Maybe/I don't Know"
The problem here lies in the fact that any of these answers can mean any of the other answers. So "Yes" could very well mean "yes", but it could also mean any of the others. This verbal confusion coupled with the ever-present Indian "head-wobble" just makes these kinds of questions absolutely useless.
We called a few hotels in Gaya from the station, but they all seemed to be full. Although, to be fair, I was asking if they had rooms available, so their 'no" could have meant 'yes"... I just couldn't be bothered to find out. So we ended up hiring an auto-rickshaw (that's what they call "Tuk tuks" here) to Bohdgaya (13 km away) where the buddha attained Enlightement. The rickshaw suffered from a flat tire, and so it took a bit longer than it should have to get to destination. Also, once there, the guy suddenly doubled his price. I got pretty pissed and managed to only pay him what we had originally agreed upon. I find it incredibly insulting to be taken advantage of. We slept all morning, and we're now exploring town. There are a number of meditation schools and Buddhist monasteries around, so we might partake in some of the more metaphysical aspects of town. After all, This seems to be the right place for epiphanies.
Saturday, April 21, 2007
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